Here we’ll go through an overview of the essential tools and accessories you’ll need to start your freshwater fish keeping journey.
Essential Aquarium Accessories for New Fish Tank Owners
If you’re looking to get started in fish keeping, you really don’t need lot of items to get started. These fall into three main categories:
- The fish tank
- Items to help with the day-to-day running of the aquarium
- Items to help with cleaning and tank maintenance
The Fish Tank
There are three main things to keep in mind when choosing your first fish tank, its material, size and its shape.
Glass aquariums versus Acrylic aquariums
Choosing between glass and acrylic tanks can be tricky for beginners, as each material has distinct advantages and drawbacks.
- Glass tanks are popular due to their affordability and resistance to scratches. They maintain clarity over time and are ideal for those who want a durable tank that won’t easily scratch during routine cleaning or adjustments. However, glass tanks are much heavier, making them harder to move, especially for larger setups.
- Acrylic tanks, on the other hand, are lighter and more impact-resistant. This makes them easier to move and less likely to break. This can be a great option if you have children or pets around the house that might bump into the tank. Acrylic also allows for more creative designs, as it can be molded into various shapes beyond the typical rectangular forms of glass. Nevertheless, as acrylic tanks are prone to scratching they will require more careful handling during maintenance. One final point to make for acrylic tanks is that they do also tend to be more expensive than glass, so this alone might make them less desirable when you’re starting out in your fish keeping journey.
To summarise, the choice often depends on your priorities: opt for glass if you want a scratch-resistant, budget-friendly tank, or go with acrylic if you prefer a lighter tank with customizable design options.
Why Bigger is Generally Better
A common mistake made by most beginners is opting for a small tank, assuming it will be easier to manage. In reality, larger aquariums are much more forgiving, especially for first-time fish keepers. Here’s why:
- Water Stability: As tank size increases, changes in water temperature, pH, and other water parameters happen more slowly. This gives you more time to correct any issues before they become dangerous for your fish and, for this reason, can also reduce the frequency that you need to do water changes. You’ll really start to notice this take affect in tanks >60 L (~15 gallons). In contrast, in smaller tanks, fluctuations happen quickly, which can stress or even harm your fish. This doesn’t mean that you cannot start with a smaller tank, indeed most of us start out with an off the shelf 15-20 L tank quite comfortably due to the higher price tags of larger tanks. Just keep in mind that you’ll want to be checking water parameters at least once a week until you get a feel for your new tank, particularly for those smaller aquariums.
- Space for Fish: Fish need room to swim and thrive. Bigger tanks give them the space they need to move around comfortably and reduces the risk of overcrowding. Overcrowding can lead to stress, illness, and aggression among fish. More space also means you can add a wider variety of fish as you gain experience. Think about how many fish you intend to buy early on to help make this decision.
- Room for Filtration and Decorations: Larger tanks accommodate better filtration systems and give you more freedom to add decorations and plants without cramping the space your fish need to swim. You’ll also have more surface area for beneficial bacteria, which also helps keep the water quality stable.
Consider the Shape
Not all tanks are created equal, and the shape of the tank can impact the well-being of your fish as well as the ease of maintenance:
Long vs. Tall Tanks:
The choice you make here should be impacted by the choice of aquatic animals you want to keep. How do they prefer to move around and where in the water column do they like to sit? A long, horizontally-oriented tank is often better than a tall, narrow one. Most fish prefer swimming horizontally rather than vertically, so a long tank provides a more natural environment for them. Taller tanks can be more challenging to clean and maintain, especially when it comes to reaching the bottom for vacuuming debris or planting. Your choice might also be impacted by the space you have available in your home. Where possble, do select it based on how the fish will want to move about. A happy fish means less work for you.
Surface Area:
The surface area of the tank (the top exposed to air) is where gaseous exchange occurs. Oxygen enters the water through the surface, and carbon dioxide is released. A long tank has a larger surface area. Tanks with a larger surface area promote better oxygenation, which is important to keep your fish healthy.
Aesthetic and Practical Considerations:
While hexagonal or bow-front tanks may look stylish, they can sometimes distort the view of your fish and may be harder to clean due to their awkward angles. For a beginner, a simple rectangular tank is often the best option because it’s easy to maintain, and offers good visibility and swimming space for the fish.
Additional Features
Many aquariums available on the market come with some additional features, such as lids and lights. These can be good all-in-one packages to get you started. Many hobbiests choose to upgrade lights in the future, for both asthetic and functional reasons, which we don’t get into in this post, but the out the package light is more than enough to start you off.
Fish Tanks with a Lid vs No Lid
Again, this will, in part, be influenced by the species you keep. Some fish are known to make a jump for freedome when no one is around to rescue them… For these acrobats, having a lid is a great way to ensure all fish stay in the water, where they are safe and sound. A lid will also help to minimise dust and debry falling into the tank, as well as water loss due to evaporation. On the flip side, some aquarists prefer the cleaner look of a tank with no lid. It comes down to individual preference. Just make sure you make an informed choice.
Aquarium lighting
Aquarium lighting serves both aesthetic and functional purposes. It not only enhances the visual appeal of the tank but also supports essential biological processes for plants and fish. It is preferable to use an aquarium light for this, rather than to rely on natural sunlight, because it gives you greater control over the light exposure in your tank.
Natural sunlight can cause rapid algae growth, leading to cloudy water, green glass and unhealthy conditions for your fish. Additionally, sunlight can cause temperature fluctuations, which can stress your fish. For these reasons, it is best not to keep your tank near a window, or where it will get direct sunlight on it. Instead, with an aquarium light, you can set a consistent light schedule that mimics the natural day-night cycle without the risk of overheating or excessive algae, ensuring a more controllable and stable environment.
Aquarium lights come with a range of strengths and spectrum options, some to highlight fish colourings, other to help plants grow. As a general rule, fish-only community tanks require approximately 0.25 to 0.5 watts of lighting per liter, whereas planted tanks need around 0.5 to 1.3 watts per liter. For the beginner fish keeper, however, any light that comes with your tank will be fine to get you going, but you might wish to keep these things in mind for future improvements.
For advice on how long to operate your aquarium lights, check out how long should you leave the aquarium lights on for?. (coming soon)
To summarise the points we’ve covered so far, when starting out, choosing a larger, rectangular tank will make your life easier and provide a healthier, more stable environment for your fish. But, don’t let the price of a big tank put you off altogether. An aquarium size of 20-30 L be stable enough for a beginner to find their feet in the hobby, without breaking the bank. I love picking up kmart rectangular glass tank (though I don’t use the gravel, plastic plant or filter it comes with), or the 18L tall tanks from PetBarn if setting up a smaller shrimp tank. Hot tip for the former, if you rotate them 90 deg, you can stack multiple along a single shelf if looking to keep a number of different non-compatible species.
Accessories for the day-to-day running of your own aquarium
Once you’ve chosen your new aquarium, there are a few additional items you’ll need to help with its day-to-day running.
A Fish Tank Filter
A good filter is another non-negotiable item. Filters remove debris, waste, and toxins from the water, helping to keep the water clean for your fish. Filters come in several types, each providing unique benefits for tank health:
- Mechanical Filtration captures physical debris like fish waste, uneaten food, and plant matter. This process prevents particles from decomposing and negatively impacting water quality.
- Chemical Filtration removes dissolved contaminants. Activated carbon is a common choice, absorbing toxins, dyes, and heavy metals to keep water clear and free of harmful substances.
- Biological Filtration is especially important, as it involves beneficial bacteria that break down ammonia and nitrites into less harmful nitrates. This is typically done with bio media like ceramic rings or bio balls, essential for a balanced ecosystem.
When choosing a filter, consider both your tank size and the filter’s flow rate. The flow rate, measured in liters (or galllons) per hour, should ideally circulate the tank’s entire volume several times per hour (aim for at least 3-4x per hr). For example, a 75-litre (20-gallon) tank should have a filter with a minimum flow rate of 300 litres (80 gallons) per hour. Generally, it’s better to select a filter slightly larger than required rather than undersizing it.
Do take your fish’s preferences into account as well. Some species, especially those with longer fins, prefer gentler water movement. Some filters offer adjustable outflow valves to modify the flow for species that need slower currents. For smaller or less crowded tanks, a sponge filter can also provide a simple, low-cost filtration solution. For more detailed guidance on selecting the right size, stay tuned for our upcoming post on what size filter do you need for your fish tank?
Fish Food
Another non-negotiable for your aquarium is fish food. Keep in mind that not all fish eat the same type of food. So, it’s important to select the right food for the species you’re keeping.
Flake food is a popular choice for many tropical fish that eat towards the top of the water column. Whereas, fish like bottom feeders, will require sinking pellets or wafers to ensure they can get to their food before it is eaten up by any other species in the tank. Other species may need live or frozen foods, such as brine shrimp or bloodworms, to meet their dietary needs. Be sure to research the specific diet of your fish.
For the majority of beginner fish, look for a flake or wafer food that’s marketed for ‘community fish‘. That should help to keep everyone in the tank happy.
While on the topic of fish food, remember to avoid overfeeding, as this can lead to water quality issues. As a general rule, only feed your fish what they can consume in about 2-3 minutes, once or twice a day. I would also recommend clearing up any uneaten food after that time frame, if you don’t have any species in your tank that will do this for you. Otherwise you’ll find that you need to start changing the water in the tank a lot more frequently to avoid getting sick fish.
Substrate for the Fish Tank
The substrate is the material that lines the bottom of your aquarium, and it plays both an aesthetic and functional role.
It can be gravel, sand, or specialised soil for planted tanks. The type of substrate you choose should be based on your fish and plant needs. For example, some fish, like bottom-dwelling species such as corydoras, prefer soft sand, while others mid-column species, like danois and goldfish, do well with gravel. If you’re planning to grow live plants, you may want to invest in a nutrient-rich substrate designed for plant growth – but this is definately not essential when starting out. Substrate also provides beneficial bacteria a surface to colonize, helping maintain a balanced aquarium ecosystem.
Most first time fish keepers opt for gravel or sand, some even go for a bare-bottomed tank. My personal go-to these days is sand; which, unless you’re after a particular colour, can be picked up much more cheeply as pool filter sand from a pool supply store. Check out our post (coming soon) on how much substrate should you use in your fish tank?.
An Aquarium Heater and Thermometer
Not all aquarium inhabitants need a heater. So whether or not you choose to buy one to get started could be influnced by the species you choose to keep and where you live in the world. All fish do appreciate stable water temperatures though.
Indeed, many fish species are sensitive to temperature changes. So, having a reliable heater in your tank, and thermometer to monitor those temps, can help to address these concerns. Most tropical fish, for example bettas and guppies, will need consistent warm water to thrive, usually between 24-27°C (75-80°F). Check out our post (coming soon) on what temperature your beginner fish tank water should be.
Most fish tank heaters these days come with a thermostat, which will allow you to set the desired temperature. This means it will stop heating once the desired water temperature is met, and turn back on if that temperature drops by a few degrees.
Aquarium heaters come in a variety of sizes, to match the heating power needed for the amount of water held in the tank. As a general rule, aim for 1-1.25 Watts per litre, and make sure that the heater can stay fully submerged under the waterline of your tank. This does not need to be met by a single heater. In fact, those with large fish tanks may place a few smaller heaters at either ends of the tank to help keep the water temperature balanced.
It’s also helpful to keep a thermometer in your tank too. This will enable you to periodically confirm the heater is working correctly, and heating the water to safe temperatures for your choice of fish. Aquarium thermometers often come as stick-on or digital ones that go inside the tank; both great options. But, be mindful that the readout could be influenced if it’s placed too close to the heater, or within direct sunlight.
Tank Tools for Cleaning and Maintenance
Here’s a quick guide to basic tools every beginner fish keeper needs to keep a healthy aquarium and make their aquarium maintenance easier.
Water Conditioner:
Tap water often contains chemicals like chlorine and cholarmine, and some even detoxify heavy metals, all of which are toxic to fish and will even kill the benifical bacteria in your filter media. THerefore, an important aspect of water changes is to remove these chemicals before adding tap water to your tank. A water conditioner neutralizes these chemicals, making your aquarium water safe for the tank’s inhabitants. Just a few drops each time you add water will protect your fish from harmful substances – do confirm the amount needed on the bottle of your purchased water conditioner before use. A proactive approach to aquariology can prevent common issues and promote a thriving underwater ecosystem. For additional tips, visit our page (coming soon) on when you should do your first water change in a new fish tank.
Water Test Kit:
Testing water regularly is crucial to keep your fish healthy. A simple water test kit lets you check the pH and levels of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Regular testing will aid in maintaining their parameters of these mearues and alert you of when water changes or adjustments are needed. For further guidance on when to test your tank water and interpret results, refer to our detailed guide (coming soon) on how to read your aquarium water test results.
Bucket:
Keep a dedicated bucket for your aquarium to avoid contamination from soaps or other residues. This bucket is essential for adding and removing water during water changes—something you’ll do every week or two.
Hose/Gravel Vacuum:
A gravel vacuum is handy for siphoning water during changes and cleaning up debris that settles in the substrate. This keeps your tank’s water clear and fresh without disturbing your fish or plants.
Sponge:
Algae can quickly build up on the glass and ornaments. A soft, aquarium-safe sponge helps you wipe away algae and keep your tank looking crystal-clear without scratching the glass.
For additional advice on maintaining your new fish tank, don’t miss our tips (coming soon) on how to properly clean your first aquarium and when should you do your first water change in a new fish tank.
Creating a Good Environment
Finally, while the above cover the core ‘essential’ items you’ll want to consider when setting up your first fish tank, below I’ve included just two more for you to think of – so that your fish tank inhabitants can have a more stimulating environment to live in too.
Adding Live Plants
Adding real plants can make a huge difference. They provide oxygen, help filter the water, and create a natural-looking habitat. Plus, they can reduce algae growth by using up nutrients in the water.
Including Tank Ornaments and Hiding Spaces
Fish feel safer when they have places to hide and explore, particularly if housed in a larger tank. Add a few decorations like rock structures or small caves to make your fish feel less exposed, and to make the most of the available space. This helps reduce stress, keeps your fish active, and encourages natural behavior.
With these beginner-friendly tools, you’ll be well on your way to creating a healthy and happy environment for your fish.
